Alessandro Michele's Extravagant Valentino Runway Debut

After what seemed like two of the longest years, Alessandro Michele made a triumphant return to the runway on Sunday, trading in his Gucci keys for Valentino's with his debut show for the Italian fashion house inside Paris’ Porte de Chatillon. There, Harry Styles, Elton John and Jared Leto filed into the front row for the most anticipated Paris Fashion Week moment, while the industry’s eager eyes peered from the fringe of curtain-clad loveseats to witness how the famed fashioner would interpret the House's codes.

In 85 looks (an edit from his 171-piece Resort collection in June), Michele reinvoigorated the House's archives—those dating back through the '60s, '70s and '80s, more specifically—and reshaped them for the modern day. In mode, his tuxedo jackets were fit for a regal ball; ruffled gowns were just as royal, and pearly men’s tops turned heads, while decorative bowties, feather-filled hats and ornamental crystals scored the lineup.

Alone, each look appeared masterfully eclectic, expertly toeing the line between order and chaos with bold mixes of colors and prints. In unison, the collection built a whole new Valentino world filled with all sorts of aristocratic, posh, tantalizing and intimidating characters. It was regency fashion at its finest, extravagant classicism to its core, and contemporary with an edge. With all codes considered, Michele’s Valentino was a timeless act, one met with a standing ovation.

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See Valentino's Spring/Summer 2025 collection in the gallery above, and stay tuned to Hypebeast for more Paris Fashion Week coverage.

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