Off the Menu: Scampi, From Altamarea Group Alumnus, Opens in Flatiron District -

Off the Menu: Scampi, From Altamarea Group Alumnus, Opens in Flatiron District

Credit: nytimes.com

  • Dec 05 2017 20:00About: 8 days ago
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Headliner

SCAMPI Once he found the space, PJ Calapa, a chef who was formerly with Michael White’s Altamarea Group, did not take long to open his dream restaurant. About eight months might be some kind of record. Polished pale concrete on the floor and the bar, and generous windows, make for an airy setting. There are touches of blue, including on some of the handmade pottery by Wynne Noble of Brooklyn, which Mr. Calapa commissioned. Though the emphasis is on seafood — with mackerel, kingfish, razor clams and swordfish, among others — there is also chicken, a steak and vegetable dishes, including whole roasted cauliflower. The crustacean after which the restaurant is named is, of course, on hand. “There’s pasta with shrimp done scampi style and the real scampi, langoustines, which we’re grilling,” Mr. Calapa said. The scampi and shrimp preparations may change on a monthly basis. (Opens Wednesday): 30 West 18th Street, 212-888-2171, scampinyc.com.

Opening

DONNER & BLITZEN’S REINDEER LOUNGE This holiday pop-up features mulled wine, eggnog and cocktails like the Feliz Navidad with tequila, Kahlúa and rum, along with grilled cheese and s’mores sandwiches. Every inch of the room is treed and tinseled, stockinged and sparkled. (Through Jan. 1): 197 East Third Street (between Avenues A and B), 212-254-9184, reindeerlounge.com.

FAUSTO The restaurateur and wine expert Joe Campanale and the chef Erin Shambura are partners at this restaurant in the old Franny’s space in Park Slope. The two worked together at L’Artusi. The Italian menu is not a red-sauce affair, but features dishes like spaghetti alla chitarra with lamb shank ragù, whole-wheat bigoli with duck, and braised pork shank with white beans. The pizza oven is put to use for whole-roasted porgy with onions and olives. Mr. Campanale’s wine list is Italian, but not exclusively so. An extensive marble-topped bar, rich wood paneling and Art Deco touches define the space. The wine cellar will be used for private parties. Ahmon Williams, the manager, is also a partner. (Saturday): 348 Flatbush Avenue (Sterling Place), Park Slope, Brooklyn, 917-909-1427, faustobrooklyn.com.

JOJO The elaborate, sometimes overstuffed décor that defined the chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s first solo restaurant, which opened 26 years ago, is gone, and the renovated two-story townhouse space has reopened after a few months. The look is pale and modern, with areas of driftwood-gray paneling. A bar is tucked near the entry, and, throughout both floors, tables are set up at chairs or banquettes. The menu is somewhat lighter, less bistro, with dishes like a warm three-grain salad, peekytoe crab dumplings in broth, madai carpaccio spiked with horseradish, and roasted lobster. But some JoJo classics, like tuna tartare, and steamed black sea bass with carrot confit, appear as daily specials. The chef is Steven Boutross, who was a sous-chef at Jean-Georges: 160 East 64th Street, 212-223-5656, jojorestaurantnyc.com.


HA’S CHINESE BAR & EATERY Jennifer Lim and Benjamin Sandler closed the Queens Kickshaw this summer, and in its place, they have installed this vegetarian Chinese restaurant with the chef Eric Simpson in the kitchen. Dishes like mung bean noodles with chives and Sichuan pepper, dan dan crispy potatoes, and mapo tofu deliver a Sichuan kick: 40-17 Broadway (41st Street), Astoria, Queens, 718-777-0913, haschinese.com.













ST TROPEZ The chef Gérald Barthélémy, who was at the Michelin-starred restaurant in the Hôtel Vernet in Paris, and then relocated to Montreal, where he worked at Taverne Gaspar, is bringing a taste of the Côte d’Azur to New York with this intimate wine bar. The menu amounts to a dictionary of southern French cooking, including stuffed tomatoes, soupe au pistou, shrimp with aioli, a fougasse flatbread, a Provençal daube (stew) of beef, and the classic Tropézienne tart for dessert. His partner and the manager, Yohann Pecheux, is from the Riviera and has assembled an all-French wine list. The décor is rustic. (Wednesday): 304 West Fourth Street (Bank Street), 917-388-3893.

PHEASANT Vincent Fraissange’s take on Mediterranean cooking is inventive. Roasted octopus with French Tarbais beans instead of the usual potatoes, crispy chicken wings with smoked chiles and yogurt, pork belly with sweet and sour onions, and a “Euro-burger” made with kielbasa, provolone and aioli are some of the offerings. But working at Taavo Somer’s unusual spot, Isa, should have made invention second nature. The room is pale, enlivened with potted succulents: 445 Graham Avenue (Richardson Street), Greenpoint, Brooklyn, 718-675-5588, pheasantnyc.com.

GRAMERCY KITCHEN Diner-style food prevails here, with an open kitchen, glass tile, a stretch of counter and tables to seat 70. Breakfast, lunch and a dinner menu — featuring chicken and waffles and veal short ribs in a dish very much like poutine — are served. (Wednesday): 184 Third Avenue (17th Street), 917-265-8884.



TARTINA This spot, relocated from Midtown Manhattan, brings the chef Federico Terminiello’s gnocchi with butternut squash and speck, scialatielli pasta (short, thick noodles) with clams and zucchini, and orata wrapped in potato to Morningside Heights: 1034 Amsterdam Avenue (111th Street), 646-590-0577, tartina-restaurant.com.

LA CONTENTA OESTE Mexican fare for breakfast, lunch and dinner is served here, from the group that owns La Contenta restaurants: 78 West 11th Street, 212-533-2233, lacontentanyc.com.

Closing

LONGBOW New York has lost one of its rare Welsh restaurants after eight years of serving leeks and more in Bay Ridge, Brooklyn.

SUSHISAMBA After 17 years, this brash West Village restaurant, the flagship of what is now a global chain specializing in a blend of Japanese and Latino food and especially drinks, will close after dinner Dec. 23. The lease is ending. Until then, some cocktails will cost $10: 87 Seventh Avenue South (Barrow Street), 212-691-7885, sushisamba.com.

Chefs on the Move

VICTORIA BLAMEY, the highly regarded chef at Chumley’s in the West Village, has left and has no immediate plans. The restaurant’s owner would not comment.

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